The Lure of Collioure

Collioure has attracted artists since the beginning of the 20th century when it was “discovered” by a group known as the Fauve artists. They were attracted not only by the subject matter but by the quality of the light. Henri Matisse and Andre Derain established their base there and were soon followed by the likes of Dufy and Picasso.

Some of the original paintings displayed in the Cafe des Templiers in Collioure
Some of the original paintings displayed in the Cafe des Templiers in Collioure

Collioure is, or was until tourism had an impact, a small fishing village on the Mediterranean coast close to the Spanish border. It was not always French but was ruled over by the Kings of Mallorca. It eventually became French in 1659.

Looking towards the foothills of the Pyrenees and Vauban”s defensive Chateau

The quaint little harbour is dominated by the Chateau Royale de Collioure, built by Vauban as a defensive measure against Spanish expansionism.

Original art on the walls of the Cafe des Templiers
Original art on the walls of the Cafe des Templiers

The artists, attracted by the clarity of the light and the ample subject matter, needed a place to stay. The Hotel des Templiers became their base and meeting place. A mix of truth and legend tells us that the poverty-stricken artists had little money to pay for their lodgings. Many offered their paintings as a means of payment, so the story goes.

Whatever the truth behind this story there are original paintings and sketches by artists well known and unheard of adorning the walls of the cafe and bar. Until they were stolen there were even original sketches by Picasso hanging on the wall, now only copies are there.

Cafe des Templiers
Cafe des Templiers

According to the granddaughter of the owner at the time the paintings were gifts from the artists who became firm friends with the owner at the time. Perhaps some were payment, but as she points out the business would not have survived if all the artists paid in paintings. Whatever the truth it is a wonderfully atmospheric place to enjoy a coffee.

Helpful signs depict the scenes by the artists where they were painted

A wander around Collioure’s steep narrow streets away from the tourist crowds reveals a plethora of artist studios. It seems Collioure still attracts artists. Many of these artists paint the same scenes the Fauve artists chose to put on canvas. The local tourist office has put up helpful signs at the locations where the artists set up their easels. These include a copy of the painting and a frame. The later is more for photographers wishing to convert the scene to several million pixels rather than brush strokes.

Lateen boats in Collioure harbour. The subject of many paintings

Wandering the harbour front, the streets and the three small bays I could see why the artists loved Collioure. It is so picturesque with colourful lateen boats bobbing in the harbour, a lighthouse converted into a church, a citadel and bougainvillaea bedecked lanes and courtyards.

I may not be a painter but I consider myself an artist with a camera as my tool of choice. I was continually framing and composing; pressing the shutter and taking photographs. Collioure is just so inspiring.

Boats old and modern taken with a Nikon DSLR camera

The same scene digitally manipulated to give it a more artistic feel

Here are a few photographs to whet your appetite.

Collioure art
Paintings for sale by the harbour
Lighthouse converted to a church is the iconic image of Collioure
The windmill on the hill overlooking Collioure
The windmill on the hill overlooking Collioure

The Lure of Collioure is still alive and well among artists and photographers… and not a few tourists too. Certainly the Lure of Collioure has called me back on more than one occasion and I will no doubt be returning again.

Do you have a special place that you like to return to again and again? Do tell us about it in the comments below.

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